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The modern male uniform, Boyer writes, has its roots in the Great Renunciation of the nineteenth century, when men gave up silks and satins, embroidered coats and powdered wigs and silver-buckled shoes in favor of woolen suits simply cut and soberly colored. That movement away from gorgeousness and toward simplicity was political: men were adopting a uniform with ties to liberal democracy. (Boyer quotes the fashion historian David Kuchta, who writes that modern men seek to communicate masculine conceptions of industry and frugality with their clothes.) Women, the thinking goes, have renounced gorgeousness to a lesser degree, because they can still wear beautiful, aristocratic fabrics, like velvet, without apology

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