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Rarely has slovenliness looked so self-conscious, or commanded so high a price. The boundaries blurred here, too, between boy, girl and other, so that supermodels like Kate and Naomi in Kurt Cobain cardigans were now the sexiest slobs on the planet (Jacobs, scarcely by coincidence, still sells a murky-khaki nail polish shade called Nirvana)

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Katie Holmes, for instance, wore a denim-and-knitwear combobut her jeans were embellished and her cardigan had a boxy, oversized fit

He said pairs of dress clips often had a back that secured the two halves together so it became one piece, like a more classic-style brooch

its more an Emma Watson dress than a Disney wonder